The Mud Maid at The Lost Gardens of Heligan
ENGLAND GARDEN TOUR BEAUTIFUL ALL THE WAY
My 12-day tour of great places and gardens of West Country England was a big success.
I was astonished that we were able to see as many gardens as we did as well as visit many historical and picturesque places during the trip, which took us from London to Tresco Abbey in the Scilly Isles and around many of the great villages, towns and gardens of Wiltshire, Somerset and Cornwall.
Here are the blog stories I posted for The Vancouver Sun during the tour. They were mostly written very quickly before or after breakfast, before we started each day’s adventure.
The challenge was to get text and photos up and loaded online before it was time to set off each morning.
You will see lots of photos in these posts plus more detail about gardens visited.
For information about future tours contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Mike Nelhams, director of Tresco Abbey Garden, left, made our group very welcome.
TOUR BLOG POSTS
West Country Garden Tour: Into Cornwall
West Country Garden Tour: Into Somerset
West Country Garden Tour: St. Ives to Marazion
West Country Garden Tour: Trek to Tresco Abbey
West Country Garden Tour: Three Cornish gardens
West Country Garden Tour: Trebah and Glendurgan
West Country Garden Tour: Heligan to Caerhay’s
West Country Garden Tour: Tintagel to Padstow
West Country Garden Tour: Eden to Trelissick
West Country Garden Tour: Into iconic Stourhead
West Country Garden Tour: From Wisley to Chelsea
Stourhead Garden in Wiltshire
Tresco Abbey Garden, Scilly Isles.
Hestercombe Garden, Somerset.
Southeast Asia 2016
From Hong Kong to Myanmar to Singapore with stops in Yangon, Bagan and Mandalay
Our 16-day Southeast Asia tour in February started out in Hong Kong.
From there we went to Myanmar, where we spent time in Yangon before flying to Bagan and Mandalay.
From there we backtracked to Yangon and flew to Singapore before returning to Hong Kong.
It was a spectacular adventure. Here are a few pictures.
If you want to see how each day of the tour went you back see details here in my blog post. I list the posts in order with links.
Our next tour is to Southwest England and the Chelsea Flower Show in May.
Other unique and exclusive tours are being planned for 2017. For details please email Loraine at email@example.com
TOUR BLOG POSTS:
Days spent touring Hong Kong
From Hong Kong to Myanmar
From Yangon to Bagan
Into Bagan, landscape of temples
From Mandalay to Singapore
Into the gardens of Singapore
Last days in Singapore
BELLA ITALIA 2015
Here are some photos of our Italy GardenTours that went from Venice to Florence, stopping at Padua and Bologna, and then on to Lucca, Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, and Pisa before moving into Puglia to Bari, Alberobello, Lecce, Ostuni, Otranto and more.
It was a fun-packed 16-days for each tour. Here are some snaps and videos.
CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE PHOTOS
CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEOS
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LEAVE A COMMENT
England, you were bloomin' lovely
My 10-day Best of British Garden Tour 2015 was a great success. We got to visit some of the best and most famous gardens in England, including Sissinghurst, Great Dixter, Kiftsgate, Hidcote, Cliveden, Stowe, Kew, Laskett and Wisley.
We finished up the tour by attending the Chelsea Flower Show which was as fabulous as ever with superb garden displays and sumptuous floral exhibits in the Great Pavilion.
For a change of pace, we decided to locate ourselves in London the entire time, staying in a nice hotel, The Millennium Bailey, opposite Gloucester Road Tube Station in South Kensington. This turned out to be very convenient and also gave us great access to local restaurants, shops, and pubs.
Being in London the whole time also allowed us to do other things, such as visit museums and art galleries as well as take in a show in the West End.
All in all, it was a fabulous tour, although the weather could have co-operated a little better at times. We did have a very icy hail storm and occasional rain.
But surprisingly these things did not spoil our time but actually added atmosphere and a heightened sense of adventure, especially when we were in Stowe Landscape Garden and the hail came pounding down and we were all forced to run for cover into the temples and the Palladian Bridge on the site.
Contact info: firstname.lastname@example.org
THANK YOU CHINA
FOR A FAB TIME
My 16-day garden tour to China, moving from Shanghai to Suzhou, Guilin, Xian, Luoyang and on to Beijing, was more fantastic than I had imagined.
The hotels were four-going-on-five star all the way. Which was a pleasure from start to finish, especially the beautiful inifinity pools I got to use first thing every morning.
We also took two internal flights and two high-speed bullet-train rides, which were also first-class.
But, of course, the highlights were the cities and the gardens and the grand assortment of historical, cultural and architectural features, high points, monuments and landmarks we saw.
One of the nicest moments was visiting a tea plantation in Guilin where we not only got to pick tea but also sample some of the more interesting kinds such as white tea and yellow tea. I loved it and ended up buying more than $300 worth to bring home - enough to last for months and months.
Contact info: email@example.com
The Great Wall was smaller than I expected - not quite as wide - but nevertheless stunningly impressive as it looped up and down over the ridge of the mountain range. I was not expecting the scenery to be as picturesque as it was but we did get the perfect weather for our visit.
In fact, the weather for our entire trip was perfect with not a drop of rain from start to finish, which is a little unusual.
The boat trip down the River Li in Guilin was awesome. I thoroughly recommend it.
And, of course, the gardens were superb, especially the Lingering Garden in Suzhou, my favourite, along with the Humble Administrator’s Garden and the Master of the Nets Gardens.
The peony festival in Luoyang was totally satisfying. We were able to see tens of thousands of exquisite tree peonies in full bloom. But more than this, I managed to have a meeting with the bosses of the garden and persuaded them that Vancouver was worthy of having a Chinese tree peony garden of its own. More about all this later. It is a developing story as I write.
I cannot say enough about the professionalism of my agent here in Vancouver - Julius Yan, of Laurus Travel. This was my first venture with Julius and he was the epitome of professionalism all the way through and his team is also top notch.
Anyway, we came away with stories of other fabulous sights to see in China, including the panda bear forests, and other river and lake and mountain destinations, so there is a strong possibility that I would like to return with another group in the future to explore more of this massive and exciting and evolving country.
Meanwhile, here are some photos from our trip but by no means all of them. I took at least 2,000, about 150 a day, so you can imagine this is a mere fraction, but enough to give you a good idea.
SEE THIS FUN CHINA TOUR VIDEO
JOURNALIST OF THE YEAR 2015
It has been great fun travelling all over the world seeing wonderful gardens.
I felt compelled every step of the way to write, either in the form of a blog post or newspaper story, about what I was seeing and doing.
These reports, often dashed off in the hotel room just before going for breakfast or dinner, were always motivated by a desire to share the wonder and thrill of seeing gardens and inspire others to travel and also see them.
So it was nice to have the Canadian Garden Council name me Journalist of the Year in their annual Garden Tourism Awards in Toronto today.
I never knew they were paying much attention. But obviously I was wrong.
So thanks very much. I am honoured to get the award.
Who would have thought it.
Contact info: firstname.lastname@example.org
Tour was a wonderful adventure
Our 18-day tour to Spain and Morocco was as excting and fun-packed as expected.
We started in Madrid and visited Segovia and Toledo before heading to Cordoba, Seville and Granada.
From there we crossed the 17 km stretch of water separating Europe from Africa and reached Tangier. From there we head to Fes and then to Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca and ended our tour in Marrakech.
On the way we saw wonderful gardens, including ones in Segovia and Madrid, Cordoba and Granada. In Marrakech we visited the famous Majorelle Garden.
Here are some snapshots from the trip. I actually shot about 2,000 photos, so you can imagine this is a mere drop in the bucket.
JAPAN, TAKE A BOW:
YOU WERE GREAT!
Tokyo makes a great first impression. Not all cities do, but Tokyo does.
If you arrive at Haneda Airport in the early evening, your shuttle into the heart of the city will be a dazzling roller-coaster ride into twisting tunnels, over high bridges, along narrow under-passes and across arching flyovers.
And as you whoosh up and over, down and under, in and out, the city sparkles majestically and looks gorgeous all around you with tens of thousands of twinkling lights from countless highrises and apartment blocks.
In the midst of it all, you have no problem spotting the Tokyo Tower, glittering all gold and shimmery — a jewel-like beacon against the night sky, it shines brighter than the Eiffel Tower and stands a wee bit taller at 333 metres.
My first impression of Tokyo and Japan was of a clean, well-organized, graffiti-free, litter-free world, filled with polite, non-horn-honking drivers, clutter-free balconies, and immaculate urban landscaping.
But what also struck me was what a quiet city it is, considering it is one of the world’s largest with 35 million people living within a 50 km radius of the centre.
Quietness, politeness and respectful behaviour, I soon discovered, is deeply entrenched in the Japanese psyche. It is not feigned or cynically observed; it is a sincere and genuine sensibility, a core value of the society.
I loved this aspect of the culture immediately, and I grew to love it more and more during my 14-day stay leading a group of 40 on a garden tour from Tokyo to Takayama, Kanazawa and on to Kyoto, Nara and Osaka.
This respectfulness is most elegantly expressed in a simple hand-gesture. The Japanese don’t point; they direct you to where you need to go, whether it’s to your seat in a restaurant, the way to the exit or the invitation to step first into an elevator. With a graceful extension of the hand, palm facing up and fingers closed, it is a charming thing to see performed.
Bowing is a common practice, too. It is not a cultural cliché, cynically performed, but rather a universal gesture of respect.
One of my most memorable experiences was walking into one of Tokyo’s biggest department stores when it had just opened to find a row of people lined up outside each of the departments.
As I walked into the store, each person gently bowed. It became a little embarrassing after the eighth and ninth person lowered their head, but what I was also intensely aware of was that, while each person was bowing respectfully, they were not surrendering a shred of their own personal dignity. Their composure and self-dignity was completely undisturbed.
You receive this kind of treatment in restaurants and bars and hotels and it sometimes comes across like a charming old-world dance move.
Another form of politeness I thought may have been a thing of the past, but is still rigorously and passionately adhered to, is the custom of removing shoes before stepping into a home, living area or traditional-style restaurants.
Some of Tokyo’s homeless are allowed to sleep at the train station once the last train has gone. Others put up small tents in the park behind city hall.
But what you notice is that before settling into their temporary abode for the night they always remove their shoes and leave them off the mat or outside the tent — that’s how deeply entrenched the importance of shoe-removal is in their thinking.
Even when people picnic under the cherry blossoms in the park — something I saw extensively in the Shinjuku Gardens — they remove their shoes before stepping on to the picnic blanket.
Politeness even extends to traffic signs. Along a highway out of Tokyo, I saw a sign showing the cartoon face of a sleeping person with a moon and a sprinkling of stars above their head.
It was a request to motorists not to rev their engines or make unnecessary noise out of consideration for people trying to sleep in apartments nearby.
When I checked into my hotel, the Keio Plaza in the Shinjuku neighbourhood, I received another cultural lesson: The Japanese not only love politeness, but also multi-functional, push-button toilets.
At first, I thought it was a joke. It struck me as an over-mechanized hospital toilet with far too many buttons.
But no, each button performed a specific and practical function, including one that initiated a polite flushing sound (new models play music) and others to launch various washing functions with adjustable pressure control.
I was also delighted to find hotels in Japan always provide guests with yukatas — the light-weight, cotton-equivalent of the classic kimono.
There is no faster way to feel that you are into the culture of Japan than to slip on a yukata the moment you get into your hotel room. These come, by the way, with stylish slippers, too.
Within a few days, I discovered all sorts of other interesting, albeit sometimes quirky, things about the Japanese sensibilities.
Public displays of affection, for instance, are frowned upon.
You don’t see any hand-holding, kissing, hugging or overt gestures — even loud talking.
I was told these expressions are thought to be intimate and private and not for public display.
When you leave a restaurant or hotel, it is not unusual for the staff to gather at the door and wave goodbye ... and keep waving and bowing and waving until you are completely out of sight.
Walking the streets of Tokyo, night or day, even in the bustling “Night Town” areas around Shinjuku was a pleasure.
I always felt safe and within a short time started to realize that I was surrounded by people who would willingly give me help at the drop of a hat.
It was a reassuring feeling, especially not to have people coming up to beg or pressure me to buy this or that or looking to gain some advantage.
Taxis in Japan are delightful.
Who doesn’t love a clean, efficient taxi? Japanese taxis set the world-standard, as far as I’m concerned. I took them in Tokyo and Kyoto.
They are clean, quiet and odour free. The back door opens automatically. Tipping is discouraged. Drivers invariably wear white gloves. You can’t help but feel special as if you have your own chauffeur.
The biggest challenge being in Japan — and I knew it would be all along — was the food. I love sushi but Japanese food is way beyond sushi. They eat every kind of seafood, including jellyfish, octopus — you name it — a lot.
The good news is that many restaurants have three-dimensional, full-colour plastic replicas of dishes displayed in the window or outside.
Or, they have photographs in menus or in the windows, so you can just point (or gesture) to order, though sad that may sound, it works.
I had at least three Japanese banquet dinners during my stay, each one served to me as I sat shoeless with legs in a trench under the table.
At each of these banquets, I had to cook meat in a boiler in the centre of the table. I ate fish with their heads still on and, well, every kind of fish — but also very fresh vegetables.
At one point, my group had a sushi-making lesson and we learned how to finger-press rice into the perfect shape and smear it with wasabi, creating a variety of items for lunch. It was fun and what we created turned out to be delicious.
The Japanese like to eat a diverse range of small portions, of as many things as possible: variety is the spice of life when it comes to their dietary choices.
In Tokyo, there is no shortage of things to do. The Ginza shopping district is top notch, especially the food sections at the department stores, where items are exquisitely displayed like works of art.
In the Mitsukoshi store, you can buy a light lunch and carry it to the sunny roof-garden terrace where you can dine and enjoy a lovely city panorama.
The Asakusa area is another exciting place to visit with its 7th century Senso-ji Buddhist temple and Denboin traditional garden and streets crammed with stalls and gift shops.
This is a good place to buy a kimono. In fact, you see dozens of young girls walking in colourful kimonos in the street as unpaid ambassadors for the district.
Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples abound. At the famous Meiji Shrine, you first learn the act of spiritual cleansing. This involves taking a wooden cup attached to a long handle to scoop water with which you first wash your left hand, then your right hand before touching your lips with water to conclude the ritual.
Attending a baseball game is something I would recommend. A number of us from my group decided to do this together. We went to see the Yakult Swallows take on the Yomiuri Giants at the Jingu Stadium.
I rooted for the Swallows, the home team. Every time they scored, fans would open umbrellas and sing a song.
At the game, young women walk around dispensing beer, using a tap attached to a beer reservoir which they carry as a back-pack. It is one of the most unusual delivery systems I have ever seen.
From Tokyo, we travelled to Takayama on one of Japan’s rapid Bullet Trains. Getting on and off the train is something that needs to be done quickly and expertly. You get two minutes maximum.
When schoolchildren take the train, they practise getting on and off in the classroom well ahead of time to get the move down precisely.
In Takayama, we stayed at a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, where you not only get to wear yukatas and slippers, but also sleep on a futon in a typical Japanese set of rooms with tatami mats and a low table.
The idea here was to give us a taste of traditional Japanese living. Most of the people in Japan still live in homes with rooms that are used for more than one function.
Futons are pulled out at night and put away in the morning to open the space for other activities.
I was told that the size of a home and the rooms within are described by the number of tatami mats that fit rather than square feet. The standard size of a mat is 88-by-176 cm.
As well as first-rate Ryokans, Takayama also has a vibrant old-town shopping area and morning market where you can taste a variety of local dishes and treats as well as taste locally brewed sake.
In one sake store, for a dollar, I was handed a small ceramic sake cup which I was allowed to keep.
I was then allowed to taste a wide range of flavours. There were at least 12 on display, including the one I ended up buying, the cherry blossom sake, brewed specially for spring.
Kyoto is by far the most bustling, vibrant, energetic city I visited. Yes, even more dynamic, I thought, than Tokyo.
At night, Kyoto is particularly beautiful. Shopping areas are brightly lit for strolling.
The city also has some of the most beautiful temples and gardens in Japan, including the Golden Pavilion, Silver Pavilion, Ryoan-ji rock garden and Saihoji moss garden.
But if you go to Kyoto, make sure you get time to walk the famous Philosopher’s Path, which gets its name from the influential 20th-century Japanese philosopher and Kyoto University professor, Kitaro Nishida, who walked the route daily for meditation and inspiration.
The path runs alongside a canal and, as you walk you pass temples, including the Honen-in, as well as tiny cafes and shops which are dotted here and there.
You can stop for a sandwich lunch with beer, wine or sake and then continue down the hillside and along the river to the lively Gion (geisha) district.
Here you can see geishas in their traditional costumes put on a classic Miyako Odon performance.
This first involves attending a tea ceremony after which you are treated to an eight-scene drama with music provided by two lines of female musicians — Jikata and Ohayashi — playing flutes, drums and traditional Japanese shamisen (three stringed banjo-like lutes).
You might find the singing a challenge to your ears, but you can’t help but be impressed by the precision of the dance moves.
Saying goodbye is also something we Westerners’ have to learn to say properly, I was told.
“You don’t just say the word, you say it with a tear in your voice as if you were weeping.
“When you just say the word, it sounds as if you mean, ‘Good, I am glad to be going.’ But when you say it the right way, with a tearful tone, it means I am so sad and don’t want to leave you.”
So with that, Sayonara.
MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH PHILADELPHIA
Falling in love is like eating cake, I always think. You don’t have to think about it too much. You just take a forkful and swallow. And if you like the way it tastes, you take another forkful. That’s pretty much how I fell in love with Philadelphia. It was not what I was expecting. It was a love affair that came out of the blue.
I love Paris. I love London. I love Rome. All amazing cities. But now I am smitten with Philadelphia.
It is a city that has taken me by surprise and made me happier than I imagined with its innate spirit of creativity, inventiveness, progressive thinking and generosity. I love, love love its unswerving focus on freedom and tolerance. I think it deserves more attention.
What precisely is it that I love so much?
Well, let me count the ways..
First, I love the attitude of its founder, William Penn, a man way ahead of his time in terms of his ideas about democracy, city planning and personal freedoms, and I love the work and achievements of so many of the city’s progressive, innovative thinkers, such as Ben Franklin.
Penn’s wonderful spirit of acceptance and religious tolerance still permeates what we now call the “city of brotherly love.”
It is significant that a giant statue of him has been placed at the top of city hall from where he watches over the city. It is a constant reminder to stand up for freedom and human rights and to always be willing to trade in a good idea for a better one.
It impresses me that the city still recognizes that it was built by immigrants from all over the world and today insists on permanently displaying the flags of 109 nations along its main boulevard -Benjamin Franklin Parkway - as a constant reminder of the complexity of the world and the value of diversity.
I love that Philadelphia values and appreciates art and beauty, so much so that it has established three of the world’s best art institutions - the Barnes Foundation, Rodin Museum and Museum of Art, all of which are jam-packed with an embarrassment of priceless treasures.
It thrills me that Philadelphia loves art so much that it has passed a law requiring every new building project to devote at least one per cent of the site to public art.
Walk any where in the downtown and you will see superb examples of wall murals and exquisite sculpture, even on quiet backstreets.
You’ll find the famous LOVE sculpture by Robert Indiana, Three-Way Piece by Henry Moore, and, of course, the Rocky Statue by A. Thomas Schomberg.
I first visited Philly to attend its superb flower show, the world’s oldest and biggest. That’s what took me there on my first visit in 2013.
But it was only when I returned there this month to see the show for a second time that I really understood what it is that I love so much about the city.
Part of this epiphany came while visiting the Barnes Foundation and Longwood Gardens, two world-class institutions created by multi-millionaires, Albert C. Barnes and Pierre du Pont.
Barnes used his fortune to amass one of the world’s finest art collections, more than 2,500 objects, including dozens of works by Impressionists. It has been estimated to be worth about $25 billion.
Du Pont used his fortune to buy a 1,077-acre property once owned by Quakers in the Brandywine Creek Valley and turning it into the fabulous Longwood Gardens, one of the world’s most beautiful garden estates with fabulous hothouse gardens and various outdoor gardens.
You can’t help but be touched by the generosity and vision of these men; their love for art and natural beauty but also their deep desire to protect and preserve it and share with others. It is a spirit of enthusiasm and leadership that I wish Vancouver saw more of from its elite citizens.
If you visit Philly, time spent at the Barnes, where every room is an eccentrically organized abundance of art treasures, and at Longwood, where the dedication to creating gorgeous landscapes is paramount, and never a waste.
Albert Barnes wanted to make people see in a way that made connections through colour and form and space, so he placed paintings next to furniture with similar patterning or colour to stretch the imagination.
Du Pont loved trees and couldn’t bear to see them cut down but he went further and created beautiful gardens, drawing inspiration from what he had seen in Europe.
Every moment at either of these spectacular facilities is guaranteed to lift your spirits and fill you with a sense of appreciation and celebration.
When I came to Philly for the first time to see the flower show, which is an amazing work in itself, I was not expecting to be dazzled also by the quirkier side of the city’s personality, such as walking into the shoe department at Macy’s and finding the world’s biggest pipe organ or the Magic Garden of Isaiah Zagar, a whimsical mosaic garden built on a backstreet, composed out of tens of thousands of pieces of found art and ceramics.
Macy’s giant pipe organ pumps out Mozart, Bach and Handel in concerts twice a day while shoppers buy new shoes. It’s just as surreal as Zagar’s Magic Garden and no one bats an eye. It is such a wonderful eccentricity, the perfect fit for a tolerant and eclectic community.
Back outside, standing in the civic square, where public art is dotted everywhere, all you need to do is stand in one spot and turn 360 degrees to see a whole range of architectural styles flash before your eyes, from the ultra-modern flash-drive of the shimmering Comcast Tower to the ornate, elaborate Victorian facade of the city hall with its 22-foot thick masonry walls.
In the lobby of the 58-storey Comcast Centre, there is yet another gesture of Philadelphia’s generosity - a wall that appears to be made of elegant wood panels that magically transforms itself into the world’s biggest and cutting-edge 3D video screen presenting free entertainment to passersby all day long.
It is a mesmerizing spectacle. There is a constant stream of people entering the lobby just to stand and stare at the giant waterfalls or whirling galaxies or humourous performances up on the giant screen.
History was not my favourite subject at school. It can be very dry and boring, but the historic sites in Philly are full of energy and vitality. It was, after all, where the U.S. revolution got under way, where the Americans found the guts to stand up and tell the English where to go.
The spirit of independence and struggle for freedom still resonates in these places where the Declaration of Independence was signed and the Constitution was drawn up.
I even get a kick out of the symbol of this triumphant push for freedom, the Liberty Bell, which although silent and cracked beyond repair continues to ring out a message of hope and freedom.
Philadelphia appears to have rejected everything Georgian when it gained its independence, but it was smart enough not to damage the beautiful Georgian architecture of its great historic buildings, such as the Carpenter’s Hall, City Tavern and Independence Hall. These buildings still have immense charm and elegance.
You can still pop into the nation’s first post office, started by Ben Franklin, or into the house of Betsy Ross and get a sense of these exciting times with actors performing the key roles.
When I am in the old town neighbourhood, I like to check out the Belgian taverns and amazing Iron Chef restaurants, but in the new town area my favourite place to spend time is the Reading Terminal Market, one of the oldest farmer’s markets in the U.S., dating back to 1892.
Here you can find an excellent version of the famous Philly Cheesesteak plus all sorts of food and craft stalls run by local Amish people, dressed in traditional outfits.
The market is a lot like Granville Island, only livelier and more diverse with more restaurants and a wide range of foods from Asian and Middle Eastern dishes to authentic Pennsylvanian Dutch cooking.
Berlin may have its fabulous “museum island’ but Philadelphia has something equally outstanding - its own row of art galleries and museums along Benjamin Franklin Parkway.
At the Museum of Art, where you can run up the steps and do a victory jig the way Rocky did in the famous 80s boxing movie, you will find exquisite room after room of art treasures, including top works by Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet and Cezanne.
During my recent visit, I fell in love with a set of four paintings by Leon Frederic called The Four Seasons, each one depicting cherubs surrounded by the flowers and foliage of each season.
In an adjacent room, I also found an exciting collection of flower plantings by Henri Fantin-Latour.
Down the road, the Rodin Museum contains the largest collection of works by the French sculptor outside of Paris.
Especially engaging is the Gates of Hell, a monumental work at the main entrance. This dark and disturbing piece includes Rodin’s most famous creations, The Kiss and The Thinker, but also The Shades, three gloomy spirits pointing to the agony of the damned below.
I never knew that the lovers in The Kiss (Francesca and Paolo) ended up in hell for their crime of passion. It was a revelation to me to realize how badly that initial beautiful, celebrated first kiss turned out.
It did, however, set the mood when I left the Rodin and wandered over to the Eastern State Penitentiary, a derelict 19th century prison that once was home to such famous criminals as Al Capone and the tunnel-digging escapee Willie Sutton.
But even here, in the dreariness of a crumbling prison block, it was possible to see Philadelphia in a more noble light.
The prison was, in its day, the model of creative rehabilitation with prisoners kept in light and airy cells built on a revolutionary, easy-to-manage wagon-wheel design.
Ben Franklin had his hand in the design of this institution which became the model for others around the world. There is no denying the terrible pain and suffering that went on there, but I came away preferring to think about the desire of people like Franklin to find a more humane and creative solution to punishment, if such a thing is possible.
Time in the prison cells makes you only more appreciative of a Philly Cheesesteak, the city’s most famous invention with its thinly sliced sautéed rib eye beef and melted cheese. But the city is also home to dozens of top notch restaurants
Amada and Buddakan are two of my favourites in the old town district along Chestnut Street. Amada is one of Iron Chef Jose Garce’s chain and Buddakan is a Pan Asian restaurant that serves up everything from seared Kobe beef carpaccio to miso tuna tartar and roasted Ponzu chicken.
I also became a fan of the classic Italian fare served up at Maggiano’s or the stylish décor and sliced meats of the Brazilian steakhouse-style of Fogo de Chao. You might also like the quirkiness of the reservoir location of Waterworks, another popular restaurant spot on the banks of the Schuylkill River.
You won’t go wrong at any of these restaurants, but Buddakan and Amada are top recommendations.
Anyway, the next time you hear Elton John singing his old 1975 hit Philadelphia Freedom think on this: He’s a lot closer to the truth about the heart and soul of the city that you might think.
I never used to think of Philadelphia as a city of light, but now I must say I totally agree with Elton when he sings, “Shine a light shine, shine a light, Philadelphia freedom shine on me, I love you, yes I do.”
GARDEN VIDEO VISITS:
See some of the world's top gardens
GARDENS TO INSPIRE
Take a few minutes to come with me and visit some of the most beautiful gardens in the world. Here are the first two in what will be a developing series.
Here you can start by visiting the delightful Le Parc Flora d'Apremont-sur-Allier in the Loire Valley followed by a quick tour of the magnificent water garden at Villa d'Este in Tivoli.
Recent additions feature Trebah, Glendurgan, the Keukenhof, Hidcote and Serre de la Madone (the gardens of Lawrence Johnston).
START YOUR ADVENTURE HERE.
WE LOVED BEAUTIFUL BRAZIL
My mind is still a jumble of thrilling scenes and unforgettable images after spending the past two weeks visiting some of the most spectacular gardens and places in Brazil.
The tour I was leading started out at Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro, jumped over to the bustling city of Belo Horizonte in Minas Gerais and ended up at Iguazu Falls, one of the world’s seven natural wonders, on the Argentina/Paraguay border.
On the way, we visited amazing gardens, most of them designed or inspired by, but always imprinted with, the bold, unmistakable signature of Brazil’s most famous and celebrated landscape architect, Roberto Burle Marx.
Burle Marx was a genius of style. He was not only a superb garden designer and knowledgeable plantsman, but also an artist who produced strikingly original images that have deeply penetrated the collective consciousness of Brazil.
You can see his iconic black and white art squiggles embedded in the pavements and sidewalks all over Rio de Janeiro.
But it was his unwavering enthusiasm for using indigenous South American plants, especially palms, agaves, yuccas, bromeliads, maranta, sansevieria, aloes and unusual tropical trees and shrubs that gave his landscapes their distinctive personality and lush, exotic ambience.
We started out by visiting the place where Burle Marx lived and worked until the end of his life: the 3.6-hectare Burle Marx estate, a magnificent garden property in Barra de Guaratiba, on the outskirts of Rio.
Today, the garden, which contains an estimated 3,500 species of plants, is owned and operated by the government
Stepping through the front gates, we were immediately aware of Burle Marx’s love for native plants.
Huge, lush palms were everywhere and Adam’s rib philodendrons (Monstera deliciosa) scrambled as high as 18 metres up the trunks of trees.
My group was puzzled at first by why I had brought them to Belo Horizonte as the city does not show itself that well, despite being a bustling and thriving metropolis with an abundance of top works by Brazil’s famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer, who died last year at the age of 105.
But then we went to Inhotim (pronounced In-yo-cheen), a massive 2,025-hectare Shangri-La that is not only a fantastic garden oasis, containing more than 4,500 species of plants, including more than 1,000 kinds of palm, but also the home of Brazil’s most impressive collection of modern art, with more than 500 works by dozens of Brazilian and international artists.
It is sensational, one of the biggest and most ambitious botanical projects in the world, a masterpiece of botanical planning and planting on a mega-scale.
Inhotim is the brainchild of 63-year-old millionaire mining magnate and art lover Bernardo Paz, who decided in the 1980s to use his fortune to transform a 1,215-hectare ranch in Brumadinho (a two-hour drive southwest of Belo Horizonte) into a spectacular garden complex and museum for contemporary art.
It was magical. And my group emerged in a suspended state of awe. Bravo to Brazil for its brilliant gardens.
It was a thrilling two weeks of fun and unforgettable sights. Here are some snapshots from the trip. You can also see a video of our trip at YouTube click here. BRAZIL TOUR 2013
SPRING TOURS TO ITALY AND FRANCE
Here’s some feedback we got from the spring garden tours. It's so important that people return home having had the time of their life.
But sometimes there needs to be some spontaneous, creative input in order to make things work out.
For instance, there was the moment when we were stuck in a traffic jam outside St. Tropez and rather than just sit there, I thought it would be fun if we had a party. When you're givien lemons . . .
I got off and bought a pack of plastic glasses and returned and opened up bottles of wines we had bought at Chateauneuf du Pape.
We played people’s favourite rock songs. Some people even got up and danced. It was fun. Other people contributed bottles they had bought and snacks. By the time the wine and food was gone, we were out of the jam and on our way to Cannes, our next destination.
We have had a fair number of spontaneous moments like that one on our tours and they always make the adventure all the more special.
Anywhere, here’s what some of the people had to say:
From the Italian garden tour.
- I can't thank you both enough for arranging such a beautiful trip. Having everything taken care of, is definitely the way to travel, and I couldn't have asked for a better way to see southern Italy and Sicily. – Sharon B.
- We look back at this trip as very special - the group was just outstanding and fun to be with. – Ron R.
- I was so energized by your selection of gardens, and loved the physical activity required to visit all the sites and manoeuvre through the many gardens, villages and towns. – Daphne S.
- Thank you again for the wonderful Italian Garden Tour. It was such a well thought out balance of activities. As Steve predicted, when we got home the experience expanded into hundreds of wonderful moments. We have sent many of our photos to friends and have told them about your tours. – Joan K. and Rob C.
- I look at my pictures almost everyday and show them to anyone who sounds the least bit interested so this is another happy reminder of this marvellous tour. – Patti B.
- We have had such fun making our own pictures into a memory slide show, and each time I look at it, the wonderful gardens return. Our presence on this trip was really up in the air until a couple weeks before because of my health problems, so when we arrived, I was a bit tentative. However, the presence of kindred gardening spirits and beautiful nature was entirely restorative. What an incredible landscape southern Italy is. We appreciated all the behind the scenes conceptualizing that you two put into your tour. You certainly made it into two splendid weeks for us. Thank you both. – Jean C.
From the French tour tour:
- We haven't downloaded our 600 + pictures yet. It was a great trip and we hope we get to join you again in the near future.
- What a rainy day, just came back from The Great Gatsby movie, his home looks like the Rothchilds! - Karen P.
- It was a wonderful tour and I will remember it forever and feel so blessed to have been able to go on it with you and Steve and the many delightful people on the trip too. Many thanks. Pauline M.
- Thanks Loraine, very enjoyable! Look forward to travelling with you and Steve again. – Jo-Ann M.
- Thanks for this delightful set of memories. To be enjoyed with a glass of rosé in hand... – Sue B.
- Thanks very much for the video. It brought back memories of our great trip--especially the music that you chose to accompany it. – Shirley R.
SEE VIDEOS FROM ITALY AND FRANCE TOURS
We had great fun on both the garden tours this spring.
I put together two short video composed of snaps of people on the tours in different locations. It is customary for us to have a song for each tour.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW.
For Italy, I picked Sensa Fine by Pauline London and for France I picked Zou Bisou, Bisou by Jessica Pare - two wonderful songs that I thought captured the spirit of each tour perfectly.
Anyway, take a look at these short little videos. Let me know what you think at email@example.com
MY LIFE IN THE GARDEN
For the past 25 years I have been the garden columnist for The Vancouver Sun here in British Columbia, Canada.
My full-colour In the Garden page appears every Friday in the At Home section. Check out my newspaper website, blog, podcasts and more here at In the Garden.
I've also written five books: The Vancouver Sun's Best Plant Picks, 100 Best Plants for Coastal Gardens,The Blooming Great Gardening Book, and 100 Best Plants for Ontario Gardens. The first four were No. 1 bestsellers in B.C.
Over the last 10 years, I have conducted 17 international garden tours to various places, including Italy, France, England, Holland, South Africa, Brazi, China, Japan, Spain and Morocco.
I have also written for various garden magazines, including Gardens Illustrated in the UK.
My wife, Loraine, and I have three children, now all in their 30s, and four grandchildren.
At our home in Burnaby, we have an English-style garden, comprising a mix of trees, shrubs, vines, roses and perennials.
Before coming to Canada in 1975, I worked for a variety of newspapers in the U.K. including the London Evening News, Bristol Post, Leicester Mercury and Nottingham Evening Post.
Below you can see a few snapshots from our recent trip to France and Italy.