JOURNALIST OF THE YEAR 2015
It has been great fun travelling all over the world seeing wonderful gardens.
I felt compelled every step of the way to write, either in the form of a blog post or newspaper story, about what I was seeing and doing.
These reports, often dashed off in the hotel room just before going for breakfast or dinner, were always motivated by a desire to share the wonder and thrill of seeing gardens and inspire others to travel and also see them.
So it was nice to have the Canadian Garden Council name me Journalist of the Year in their annual Garden Tourism Awards in Toronto today.
I never knew they were paying much attention. But obviously I was wrong.
So thanks very much. I am honoured to get the award.
Who would have thought it.
THE BEST OF BRITISH GARDEN TOUR 2015
10 day exclusive adventure to iconic English gardens
What better time to be in England than the merry month of May. It’s the time for well-dressing and floral dances, Morris men and Jack in the Green; a time for children to skip around a maypole, put flowers in their hair and quote Robert Browning about blossoms and swallows and dewdrops.
It’s in May that the English celebrate spring in all its glory by watching cricket played on a village green, raise a glass of beer in a quiet country pub to toast the beauty of the season and take time to walk in lovely, timeless gardens that moved poets and playwrights to pen the most romantic prose.
This May, I invite you to come with me to England on an exclusive 10-day adventure to explore London (in a way you have never done before) and visit some of England’s most iconic and world-famous gardens and topping it all off with a visit to the fabulous Chelsea Flower Show, the classiest, most prestigious garden show in the world.
There are a few things that make this unique tour special.
For one, we will be based the entire time in London in a great hotel close to Kensington Palace, Hyde Park, the Victoria and Alberta museum and a stone’s throw from the Chelsea Flower Show. This means no packing and unpacking to move locations.
Daytrips are a much-loved British tradition. It is what the English do all the time; it’s how they like to visit the historic places of their heritage.
That’s how we will spend our days – fun day-tripping to exquisite, iconic gardens, such as Sissinghurst, Great Dixter, Kew and Wisley, Hidcote, Kiftsgate, Laskett, Cliveden and Chenies – all world-class destinations.
The beauty of this, of course, is that our evenings will be spent in London, making it easy to go to the theatre or concert, and access all the great pubs, restaurants, galleries, museums and shopping streets. As Dr. Johnson once rightly observed: if ever you get tired of London, you’re tired of life.
I know London well – I once lived there and was last there in November – and I never tire of the energizing vitality of the place.
It’s my hope that you will allow me to share with you my favourite pubs, markets and shopping districts as well as beautiful gardens and green spaces.
Our farthest daytrip will be out into the lovely countryside of Herefordshire to visit Sir Roy Strong at his fabulous Laskett Garden.
Writer, broadcaster, art and garden expert, Strong was the director of the National Portrait Gallery and V&A Museum, but he also built a crackerjack garden called Laskett, which has wowed many people, including Prince Charles, who pinched ideas from it for his own garden at Highgrove.
We will be lucky to see the Laskett because Strong says when he dies he wants it to be dismantled rather than have it fall into the wrong hands.
If you have a bucket list, you most definitely should have the Chelsea Flower Show on it. Everyone ought to experience “Chelsea” at least once in their life.
But I could say the same about seeing Sissinghurst, the magnificent (and in its days revolutionary) garden of Vita Sackville West and Harold Nicolson as well as the equally iconic garden of Great Dixter, made famous by beloved garden guru, Christopher Lloyd.
Walking in these two extraordinary Kent gardens will leave you with a deeper understanding and appreciation of why British garden-style ruled the world for so long and why they are still considered by many to be the pinnacle of quality garden-design.
From our London base, it is a mere hop, skip and a jump to Buckinghamshire where we’ll visit Cliveden and Chenies - one an Italianate mansion with fascinating connections to royalty and political dramas, the other a wonderful manor house, dating back to the 15th century and used in TV adaptations of stories by Austen and Dickens as well as the backdrop for programs like Midsummer Murders.
Both Cliveden and Chenies have terrific gardens. You will see classic herbaceous borders, Tudor accents, mazes, physic gardens, woodlands, and impressive Italian-style topiary and grand vistas.
Out into the Cotwolds – one the quaintest corners of England – we’ll visit two of my most favorite Gloucestershire gardens, Hidcote Manor and Kiftsgate.
Both are unique and famous and need little introduction to gardeners who spent any time leafing through coffee table books on the best gardens in Britain.
What will be most interesting to me is to see which of these gardens thrills you the most.
Lawrence Johnston changed the world of landscape design with his clever “garden rooms” with immaculately clipped yew hedges and sublime pleached lime walks.
But Kiftsgate, built by three generations of women gardeners, has an enthralling ambience and ethereal charm, so beautiful and moving, it is hard to capture it accurately in words or pictures.
It is truly a case of having to experience the gracefulness of the place itself with all its turn-the-corner surprises and spectacular countryside views.
Wisley is the flagship garden of the Royal Horticultural Society. There’s no place quite like it where you can see such a wide range of plants grown to perfection, either in greenhouse or garden.
As well as being a beautiful garden with great rockeries, shrub borders and intimate courtyards, it is a place full of innovations, inventiveness and clever gardening techniques.
At Kew, always a joy to visit in May when the flower borders are at their freshest and best, we will have a special guide to take us to all the best parts. You’d be surprised how often people get lost in the vastness of Kew and come away missing so much. Won’t happen to you.
In addition to all this, we will, of course, make the most of our time in London with visits to Greenwich and other top attractions as well as a cruise on the Thames.
You will certainly want to spend time shopping in and around Covent Garden, Oxford Street, Regent Street and so on.
And I will be inviting you to join me for a pint in some of my favourite pubs (not telling you the names here because, well, then everyone would know!)
We will wrap up our grand adventure - a natural crescendo, grand finale – with the Chelsea Flower Show, an event that is now so popular world-wide, even RHS members find it a challenge to get tickets.
You will understand what all the fuss is about the moment you walk onto the Chelsea site and feel the buzz of excitement and hear all the oohs and ahhs of wonderment at the brilliantly detailed displays and exhibits.
It’s worth your time, trust me, if only for the champagne tents and the celebrity watching and to soak up the cool chic of Chelsea’s style.
Another unique aspect of our Best of British Gardens Tour is that we have worked closely with Transat to get a bargain rate on airfare. You’ll see the airfare is included in the total price, which is a bit of coup for us.
The Best of British Garden Tour will not only leave you with an abundance of golden memories, but is also a great way to share special time with family or friends and a fun way to meet some fascinating new people.
PRICE: $6,967 per person including tour and air fare. Single supplement is $1,997 with a max of four in the group.
To book your spot on the tour please call Lyle Truden at Flight Centre Library Square
345 Robson St | Unit 203 | Vancouver, at 604-684-7951 | (Toll Free) 1-866-275-1150| or by email at firstname.lastname@example.org
You can also see the full itinerary on our website at www.vancouversun.com and on my In the Garden blog and web page at www.vancouversun.com/whysall
14 May 15
Coach transfer from Gatwick to hotel.
Assistant meet & assist from Gatwick to hotel.
Accommodation 10 nights at 4 Star Superior, Millennium Bailey's, London.
Bed and English breakfast.
Porterage – 1 bag per person in and out.
The Millennium Bailey's Hotel was one of the very first purpose built hotels in London and was fully restored in 1996. As elegant as the era in which it was established, this Victorian gem is both traditional yet delightfully avant-garde. Room facilities include en-suite bathrooms, air conditioning, direct dial phone, voice mail, message service, modem points, radio/TV, movies/pay per view. Room service is 24 hours. Olives Restaurant & Bar and the nearby Bombay Brasserie provides excellent dining facilities.
15 May 15
Full day sightseeing in London.
Guide for full day sightseeing in London.
Entrance to Flamsteed House and Meridian Line Courtyard at the Greenwich Royal Observatory.
Entrance to The Old Royal Naval College.
Cruise from Greenwich to Tower, one way.
Entrance to Tower of London.
16 May 15
Full day excursion to Hidcote and Kiftsgate.
Full day guiding.
Entrance to Hidcote Manor Garden.
Entrance to Kiftsgate Court.
17 May 15
Excursion to Wisley.
Includes guided tour.
18 May 15
Excursion to Kew Gardens.
Entrance to Kew Gardens & Kew Palace.
Includes guided walking tour.
19 May 15
Excursion to Laskett Gardens.
Entrance to The Laskett Gardens.
20 May 15
Full day excursion to Sissinghurst and Great Dixter.
Entrance to Sissinghurst Castle & Gardens.
Entrance to Great Dixter House & Gardens.
21 May 15
Full day excursion to Cliveden and Chenies Manor.
Entrance to Cliveden Gardens.
Entrance to Chenies Manor House and Gardens.
22 May 15
Coach transfer from hotel to Chelsea Flower Show (one way).
23 May 15
Free day in London.
24 May 15
Coach transfer from hotel to Gatwick.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: email@example.com
ITALY TOUR 2015:
FEW SEATS LEFT
A unique 16-day adventure from Venice to Tuscany to Puglia
My next garden tour will be a totally unique, customized 16-day garden-culture adventure to Italy in September, starting in Venice and moving on to Tuscany and ending up in Puglia, the gorgeous and less well-known heel-province of the country.
Since so many people have expressed firm interest in this tour, I will be doing two identical tours, back-to-back, in order to accommodate all the people, so no one will be disappointed.
The first tour will be Sept. 10 to 25 and the second tour will be from Sept. 27 to Oct.13. You have a choice, depending on what best suits your timetable.
I am thrilled with the pacing, selected gardens, hotels and special events planned for this tour. I have worked hard to make everything as perfect as possible.
This adventure is not only imaginative and comprehensive in scale and scope but totally original. I am sure you will not find another tour of this quality and diversity anywhere.
Places we will visit include Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Siena, Pisa, Volterra, and the other Tuscan hill towns before we hop a jet for a quick flight to Puglia to visit Bari, Matera, Alberobello, Otranto, Lecce, Ostuni and more.
Gardens, as usual, will be the key connecting theme. We will be visit various iconic, historic gardens, especially in Florence and other Tuscan towns, as well as in Venice and Puglia.
We start this adventure in the magical and majestic water-city of Venice. I want it to start here not just so you can take a surreal gondola ride or walk over the Bridge of Sighs and into Saint Mark’s Square at night when the orchestras are playing, but also so you get to experience the joy of walking into the Dorsoduro and seeing all the wonders of that picturesque district.
Out of Venice, we will visit the fabulous Palladian Villa Foscari (La Malcontenta), a work of iconic and monumental importance in the world of architecture, noted for its extraordinary beauty and originality. It also has a lovely garden.
From Venice, I want us to travel to Florence in the most interesting way possible, so I have arranged for us to stop twice on the way, once in Padua for coffee (at Caffe Pedrocchi) and to see the beautiful town centre with its magnificent cathedral, and a second time in Bologna, the “foodies” capital of Italy, for a leisurely lunch and a chance to see its beautiful central piazza.
And then its on to Florence, arriving in time to freshen up before walking into town in the evening for dinner and to take in the exquisite night-time ambience of the place.
What a day? Venice in the morning, Florence in the evening, Padua and Bologna and beautiful countryside in between.
How many people on the planet have such a day in their entire life? Yes, I think it is something to get excited about.
In Florence, there are two gardens I have always wanted you to see – Villa Gamberaia in Settignano, one of the most famous gardens in the world that has influenced countless garden designers, and Giardini Corsini al Prato, a private garden, owned by the Princess Corsini, one of Italy’s true aristocrats.
In Florence, you must also, of course, see the Boboli garden, Michelangelo’s David, the Ponte Vecchio and the wonders of the Uffizi, but we will also be stepping out of Florence to visit Lucca, the beautiful hometown of Puccini.
From Florence, we will visit other spectacular Tuscan hill towns - San Gimignano - where we will taste some wine before settling into our hotel in Siena, another one of Italy’s most charming and historical towns with fabulous shopping and central piazza famous for the astonishing annual horse race, featured in the James Bond movie Quantum of Solace.
You will love Siena. It is different to Florence - it was once bigger and more prestigious, but fortunes changed and left the town in second place, but its beauty and charm has never faded.
From Siena, we will visit another hill town, Volterra, famous for its Etruscan history. It is an important town to see in understanding the heritage, style and architecture of this part of Italy.
From Siena, we move to Pisa, where we will visit the Field of Miracles, see the Leaning Tower (of course), have lunch, and jump on a jet to take us to a totally different kind of Italy.
Our local guide throughout will be former Italian TV star and playwright Massimiliano Delgado whose is native to Puglia, a place that is very much undiscovered by the bulk of the tourist population, being somewhat remote in the heel of Italy.
With Max on board, I know we are going to have fun seeing it properly.
What you will find in Puglia are people who have no idea how beautiful they are and how good they are at what they do in terms of running their shops and restaurants and making exquisite wine. Puglia, to my mind, is like a beautiful girl in a remote mountain village who has not a clue about how gorgeous she is. It is the kind of lack self-awareness that has a deep, unspoiled quality of innocence to it. I think you will love discovering Puglia.
Highlights will include visits to the Trulli-town of Alberobello, stopping on the way at the seaside town of Polignano a Mare.
Out of Bari, we will step across the line into Basilicata to visit Matera, the place where Mel Gibson filmed Jesus of Nazareth, and a town famous in Italy for the way people continued to live in caves (sassi) with their animals, even into the 1960s.
We will stay in Lecce, a gem of a city with magnificent streets and cathedral and warm and gracious people, noted for their hospitality. But they are also unchanged in their Italian-ness for centuries, so this is a town that does shut down for siesta promptly at 1 and opens again at 4 and then busteles into the night.
From here, we head Ostuni, also known as the “white city”, and we have a couple of days sightseeing, wining and dining before our final farewell dinner celebration.
Whew! I have not told you it all by any means.
Loraine and I will be send out many suggestions before the tour - places to mark down, things to consider doing, making sure you have tickets for all the right places and so on. You will be looked after.
If you want to be part of this adventure, please call Lyle to book a reservation. You can reach him at 604-684-7951 or firstname.lastname@example.org
The price is $6,591 per person and single supplement is $1,350. Lyle will ask for a deposit of $2,500.
If you have any questions and comments, don’t hesitate to email us. Your emails go to Loraine at email@example.com for safe keeping but I, of course, see all of them and will reply.
Please see the basic drafts of the itinerary below. A more detailed one will be sent to you three weeks before the tour.
Steve Whysall’s Italy Tour 2015
10th September 2015
Arrival in Venice. Meeting with your local tour escort and transfer by private bus to your hotel. In the evening there will be a welcome dinner in a local restaurant.
11th September 2015
In the morning there is a half day walking tour of Venice. In the afternoon there will be a guided tour of the magnificent Villa La Malcontenta designed by Palladio (www.lamalcontenta.com) followed by a return to the hotel and the evening on your own
12th September 2015
The group departs for Padua with a stop for coffee in the famous Caffe Pedrocchi. The tour then continues to Bologna where lunch will be provided in a local restaurant before completing the journey to Florence where they will spend the next 4 nights.
13th September 2015
This morning the group will visit the Villa Gamberaia. Free time for lunch will then be followed by a guided tour of Giardino Corsini. Dinner is then arranged at a local restaurant in Florence.
14th September 2015
This tour day is free to do as you wish, although there will be optional excursions available to the Uffizi Gallery or Giardino di Boboli.
15th September 2015
Today is a visit to Lucca where you will see the Palazzo Pfanner (www.palazzopfanner.it) There will be free time for lunch and in the afternoon to explore on your own, followed by the return to Florence.
16th September 2015
Depart for a full day excursion to Siena and San Gimignano which will include some wine tasting. The day ends in Siena where you have the evening to yourself.
17th September 2015
Today you will visit Volterra, and there will be some cheese tasting involved. After your return to Siena you have some free time to explore.
18th September 2015
A busy day ahead, with a half day guided tour including lunch in Pisa followed by a flight down to Bari in the afternoon. To end the day there is a dinner arranged at a local restaurant.
19th September 2015
After a half day guided tour of Bari in the morning, you will have the rest of the day to yourself.
20th September 2015
Travel to Matera for a half day tour, with free time to explore Bari after your return.
21st September 2015
Time to head over to Lecce, with a stop in Polignano A Mare for a panoramic tour of the town. Lunch will be in Alberobello where you can visit the famous trulli, with the day ending at your hotel in Lecce.
22nd September 2015
A morning visit to the Giardino Botanico in Lecce is followed by a visit to Otranto which will include dinner before returning to your hotel in Lecce.
23rd September 2015
Departing for Ostuni in the morning, there will be a stop on the way in Brindisi for a panoramic tour on the city. The last two nights of the tour will be spent in Ostuni.
24th September 2015
A full free day in Ostuni to enjoy the last day in Italy, with a farewell dinner in the hotel.
25th September 2015
Transfer to the airport for departing flights.
- 10/09 – 12/09 (2 ngts) in Venice - Htl Bonvecchiati 4* www.bonvecchiati.com
- 12/09 – 16/09 (4 ngts) in Florence - Htl Cellai 4* www.hotelcellai.it
- 16/09 – 18/09 (2 ngts) in Siena - Htl 4*such as Excelsior
- 18/09 – 21/09 (3 ngts) in Bari - Htl Oriente 4* www.hotelorientebari.it
- 21/09 – 23/09 (2 ngts) in Lecce - Htl 8 Piu Hotel 4* www.8piuhotel.com
- 23/09 – 25/09 (2 ngts) in Ostuni - Htl 4* such as Htl Monte Sarago
The second tour is identical to this one, starting Sept. 27 and concluding Oct. 12. SECOND TOUR NOW SOLD OUT; FEW SPOTS LEFT ON THE FIRST TOUR.
CHINA TOUR 2015:
NOW SOLD OUT
16-day adventure will hit all the highlights for trip of a lifetime
I’ve always been a little intimidated by the idea of going to China. I still tend to think of the world’s most populated country the way many Westerners do, even today with all that we have learned, as a place of mystery and intrigue and even a little forbidding.
But since I went to Japan this spring, I have become much braver about wanting to visit China and I have become even more aware of the importance, creativity and inventiveness of Chinese thinking and innovation, especially in terms of garden-making.
I have seen the beautiful Zen-garden of Kyoto, now I want to explore the equally fabulous and complex gardens of Suzhou, once dubbed “the Venice of the East” by Marco Polo.
On April 10, I invite you to come with me to China, not just to see fabulous gardens, but for a fun time experiencing all the wonders and beauties of this amazing culture, from the bustling cities to the sublime tranquility of its mountains, rivers and lakes to the astonishing diversity of its art, cuisine and culture.
The 16-day tour we have put together has a beautiful shape to it, starting in Shanghai, moving on to Guilin and Xian and then to Luoyang and Beijing.
We see all the famous sites and take in all the celebrated wonders: The Great Wall, Terracotta Warriors, Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City.
We will be taking two internal flights, two river trips (one for five hours down the Li River, the other a Chinese-style gondola ride along a canal through Suzhou) as well as a high-speed train ride from Luoyang to the Longmen Grottoes to see as much as possible.
There will be banquets, amazing entertainment and plenty of relaxing free time to explore and shop in some of the most interesting places, especially the paved back alleys and along the crisscrossing waterways of Suzhou.
Gorgeous gardens will, of course, again be a consistent linking theme as they are on all my tours. I find this is such a relaxing way to experience the heart of a country and its culture.
I will be taking you to marvellous gardens and into sensational landscapes, especially the 16th century five-acre Garden of Contentment (Yu Yuan in Shanghai) with its Dragon Wall and sculptural rocks from Lake Taihu, as well as world-class gardens in Suzhou, such as The Lingering Garden and The Garden of the Humble Administrator.
We will also walk Tiger Hill, where there are beautiful gardens in all directions, many containing world-class examples of the ancient art of penjing (bonsai in Japanese).
We will see fabulous grottoes, panoramic views from hilltops and we will get to walk on the fabled Silk Road as well as seeing China’s famous peony festival.
We will also learn more about the calm and beauty of temple culture and how it gave birth to all sorts of clever ideas, including great gardens around the world, such as many of the top Zen gardens in Japan.
If you have never heard of Guilin, you will find that it has a long established reputation for its ethereal landscape of mountains and water. You will get to see it for yourself and know why it has been the subject of art and poetry for centuries.
This is where we will travel by boat into unique limestone mountain-like landscapes, bamboo forests and picturesque villages.
There are too many sites on this tour that have been given World Heritage status than I can mention here: China has an embarrassment of riches in this regard.
Anyway, here is your opportunity to come along on a trip of a lifetime.
Here is the full itinerary and price and other details. To book please contact Julius at:
Laurus Travel Inc.
3195 Granville Street - Suite 45
Vancouver, British Columbia V6H 3K2
604-438-7718 / 1-877-507-1177 toll free
YOUR INTINERARY FOR THE GREAT CHINA TOUR 2015
16-day China Garden Tour with Steve Whysall (Apr 10-25, 2015)
Visiting Shanghai, Suzhou, Guilin, Xian, Luoyang, Beijing
This premium tour combines China's most popular destinations with special garden visits. The trip is further augmented by special culinary events and meetings with local gardening experts. History, culture, natural wonders, gardens, gourmet food, silk, tea and high-speed train – these are the main ingredients of this well planned itinerary.
Trip highlights include the Great Wall at Mutianyu, the Forbidden City, the Terracotta Army, Longmen Grottos, Li River cruise and spectacular evening shows.
B = buffet breakfast at hotel | L = Chinese lunch | D = Chinese dinner
Day 1/Fri, Apr 10: Departing Home City
The journey begins with your transpacific flight departing from a city of your choice. You'll lose a day upon crossing the International Date Line.
Day 2/Sat, Apr 11: Arrival in Shanghai
Welcome to Shanghai! Meet your guide on arrival in late afternoon and transfer to the hotel. The balance of the day is at leisure to help you recover from jetlag.
Day 3/Sun, Apr 12: Shanghai
Before the Communists took over China in 1949, Shanghai was widely known in the West as a city of quick riches and paradise of the adventurers. After four decades of anemic growth in a state planned economy, Shanghai is roaring back to recapture its position on the world stage. With a population of 23 million and rapid economic expansion in the last 20 years, Shanghai has again become a leading global city with significant influence in commerce, culture, finance, media, fashion, technology and transport.
After a two-hour orientation in the hotel, we set out for the historic Bund – a waterfront promenade famous for its landmark neoclassical buildings of European style. This is followed by a visit to the Shanghai Museum and Yu Garden.
Established in 1952 and frequently cited as the best museum in China, the Shanghai Museum moved to its present location at People's Square in late 1995. Its 11 state-of-the-art galleries and three special exhibition halls are arranged on four floors that encircle a spacious cylindrical atrium in the centre. The floors are carpeted, the track lighting is bright and focused, the exhibits are tastefully displayed, and the explanatory signs are in English as well as Chinese. Foreign visitors to the museum often rank it as Shanghai's very best attraction. Among the galleries you should not miss are the ones dedicated to Chinese bronze ware, calligraphy, ceramics and sculpture. If time allows, you should also check out the galleries of ancient furniture and jade.
Yu Garden or Yu Yuan in Chinese is a traditional Chinese garden located in the old town centre. It was first conceived in 1559 during the Ming Dynasty by Pan Yunduan as a comfort for his father, the minister Pan En, in his old age. Pan Yunduan began the project after failing one of the imperial exams, but his appointment as governor of Sichuan postponed construction for nearly twenty years until 1577. The garden was the largest and most prestigious of its era in Shanghai, but eventually its expense helped ruin the Pans. Ownership changed hands many times in the following 4 ½ centuries. The garden suffered massive damages during the 19th century by both foreign invaders and domestic rebel troops. The garden was re-opened to the public in 1961 after extensive repairs and declared a national monument in 1982.
Tonight we enjoy a delicious welcome banquet featuring the best of Shanghai cuisine. (B/L/D)
Day 4/Mon, Apr 13: Shanghai
Full day sightseeing includes the Jade Temple, Lujiazui Financial District and the French Concession - an extra-jurisdictional territory from 1849 to 1946. Evening entertainment is a dazzling acrobatic show called ERA – Intersection of Time, a huge success that is partially Canadian (http://www.era-shanghai.com/era/en/creators/). (B/L/D)
Day 5/Tue, Apr 14: Shanghai – Suzhou
Morning at leisure. We drive to Suzhou around noon. Located 80km to the northwest of Shanghai, Suzhou is most famous for its classical gardens, canals and silk industry. In the late 13th Century a Venetian named Marco Polo visited Suzhou and he was very impressed by what he saw. He vividly described the prosperous silk making trade and dubbed Suzhou Venice of the East due to the small waterways crisscrossing the city.
First on our afternoon agenda is the Lingering Garden, one of the gardens that form the UNESCO World Heritage Site collectively known as Classical Gardens of Suzhou. We then enjoy an hour-long canal cruise by Chinese style gondola. (B/L/D)
Day 6/Wed, Apr 15: Suzhou
Morning sightseeing at historic Tiger Hill, a popular tourist destination for hundreds of years, as is evident from the poetry and calligraphy carved into the rocks on the hill. The hill is so named because it is said to look like a crouching tiger. Another legend states that a white tiger appeared on the hill to guard it following the burial of King Helu. The highlight here is the brick pagoda constructed between 959 and 961 AD as part of the Yun Yan Buddhist temple. Because of its unintended tilt to one side (2.34 meters off towards northeast), the pagoda is also called by some China's Leaning Tower of Pisa, except this one is 200 years older than the bell tower in Italy.
The afternoon schedule includes the Humble Administrator's Garden and a silk spinning mill. The traditional Humble Administrator's Garden is a masterpiece of Chinese garden design and the most important component of Classical Gardens of Suzhou - a UNESCO inscribed World Cultural Heritage Site. (B/L)
Day 7/Thu, Apr 16: Suzhou - Guilin
This morning is set aside for you to explore on your own. Stroll the cobblestone paved back alleys, browse the lovely souvenir shops selling all kinds of trinkets or sit by a canal and watch local life unfold before your eyes - there is simply no better way to appreciate the charm of ancient Suzhou.
We drive to Shanghai Pudong International Airport (2 hours) for our late afternoon flight (2 ½ hours) to Guilin. A small city by Chinese standards, Guilin has long been renowned for its unique scenery. The name Guilin literally means "forest of sweet osmanthus", owing to the large number of fragrant sweet osmanthus trees in the city. (B/D)
Day 8/Fri, Apr 17: Guilin (Li River cruise)
We begin today with a five-hour cruise down the Li River. The 83km stretch of the river between Guilin and Yangshuo affords breathtaking scenery as the river snakes through tall karst mountains, gigantic bamboo sprays and picturesque villages -- sights that have inspired countless poets and painters for generations.
We disembark in Yangshuo after lunch and drive back to Guilin, stopping by a village en route. Dinner is on your own, please ask your guide for restaurant recommendations. (B/L)
Day 9/Sat, Apr 18: Guilin - Xian
Morning at leisure. A walk along the Li River in front of the hotel is a wonderful way to soak in the beauty and tranquility of this lovely city. We transfer to the airport for an afternoon flight to Xian (2 ½ hours). (B/D)
Day 10/Sun, Apr 19: Xian
Eastern terminus of the fabled Silk Road and one of the ancient capitals of China, Xian is home to the world famous Terracotta Army.
Morning visit to the Terracotta Warriors and Horses Museum. Built on the excavation site, the museum is located 30km east of the city. Designed to follow the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) into eternity, the Terracotta Army represents one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the 20th Century.
After lunch we return to the city for a stroll on the ancient city wall. The wall, declared a national treasure by the State Council in 1961 under the premiership of Zhou Enlai, was started in 1370 during the Ming Dynasty, encircling an area of 14 square kilometres. The wall runs 13.7 kilometres long and measures 12 metres in height and 15 to 18 metres in thickness at the base.
Tonight we enjoy a live music and dance performance reminiscent of the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.), a period generally considered a golden era of the Chinese civilization. Depending on the season, the theatre could substitute the show with one re-enacting the life of Emperor Qin Shi Huang - the first emperor who unified China. (B/L/D)
Day 11/Mon, Apr 20: Xian - Luoyang
Morning sightseeing begins at Shaanxi Provincial Museum. The modern, well-organized museum was completed in 1992 and traces the history of Xian from prehistory to the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). The extensive galleries and exhibitions offer the visitor an excellent introduction to the area that greatly improves understanding of the numerous historical sites in and around the city.
We travel to Luoyang by high speed train (2 hours) after lunch and visit the magnificent Longmen Grottoes on arrival. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the grottoes located 12km south of Luoyang contain as many as 100,000 Buddhist statues ranging from 1 inch to 57 feet in height. Dating as far back as 493 A.D, these ancient sculptures carved out of cliffs on both sides of the Yi River are some of the finest examples of Chinese Buddhist art. (B/L/D)
Day 12/Tue, Apr 21: Luoyang - Beijing
Morning sightseeing takes in the 20-century-old White Horse Temple, the oldest Buddhist monastery in China, and the Peony Garden across from the monastery - the site of the annual peony festival held between April 10 and May 10.
We then board the new high-speed train for Beijing. The four-hour rail journey cuts through urban centres crowded with high-rises and fertile farmland dotted with villages, providing the visitor an excellent way to enjoy the beautiful landscape. The track we travel on is part of the new 2,298 km high-speed railway connecting Beijing and Guangzhou, the longest high-speed rail line in the world. The Chinese for the past 20 years have been on a building spree expanding the country's rail network and upgrading existing railways. This new rail service rivals France's TGV and Japan's "shinkansen" in terms of speed, comfort, cleanliness and onboard facilities. (B/L/D)
Day 13/Wed, Apr 22: Beijing
Capital of China, Beijing is a world-class cultural and educational centre with a population of 21 million (2013), ranking it China's second largest city behind Shanghai. Beijing is renowned for its opulent palaces, temples and huge stone walls and gates, treasures that make it the most popular tourist city in China.
Beijing was already a strategically important city in northern China for centuries when Kublai Khan decided to move his capital here from Karakorum in Mongolia. With the collapse of the vast Mongol empire in 1368 AD, Beijing, known as Da Du or Grand Capital at the time, lost its status as the country's capital but soon regained it when the imperial court of the successive Ming Dynasty moved here from Nanjing. Beijing continued to serve as China's capital after Manchu tribes dethroned the last emperor of the Ming Dynasty in 1644 and established the Great Qing Empire (Qing Dynasty), which lasted till 1911.
Our first stop today is the Forbidden City located in the centre of Beijing. Also known as the Palace Museum or Gu Gong in Chinese, the Forbidden City was the place where the emperors of Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties lived and carried out their administration. Construction of the Forbidden City took 14 years (1406-1420) to complete. The complex consists of 980 buildings and covers 72 hectares or 180 acres. It exemplifies traditional Chinese palatial architecture and has influenced cultural and architectural developments in East Asia and elsewhere. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987, this is the largest collection of preserved ancient wooden structures in the world.
Afternoon sightseeing at the Summer Palace, a well preserved UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. The imperial resort was first named Garden of Clear Ripples, which was burnt down by the allied forces of Great Britain and France in 1860 during the Second Opium War (referred to as the Arrow War by the British). Reconstruction started 25 years later and was completed in 1895 when the name was changed to Yi He Yuan (Garden of Good Health and Harmony). The design gives prominence to Longevity Hill and Kunming Lake, south of the hill. The sprawling complex covers an area of 290 hectares and the buildings inside consist of over 3,000 bays. (B/L/D)
Day 14/Thu, Apr 23: Beijing
Today we embark on a full-day excursion to the legendary Great Wall at Mutianyu, 75km northeast of the city. Zigzagging over 6,000 kilometres from east to west along the undulating mountains, the Great Wall was built to hold off tribal invaders from the north. Construction of the earliest sections of the Wall started in the 7th century B.C. A major renovation started with the founding of the Ming Dynasty in 1368 and took 200 years to complete. The wall we see today in Beijing is almost exactly the result of this effort. (B/L)
Day 15/Fri, Apr 24: Beijing
Morning sightseeing takes us to historic Jingshan Park for a panoramic view of the Forbidden City from above. The park to the north of the Forbidden City was part of the imperial palace in the old days, serving the royal families as a convenient site for farming, recreation and ancestor worshipping. The man-made hill (46 meters above ground, 89 meters above sea level) overlooks the Forbidden City and provides a great spot for a bird's-eye view of the surrounding area.
We then proceed to Tian’anmen Square. Located in the heart of Beijing, the square is 880 metres from north to south, and 500 meters from east to west. Said to be the biggest of its kind in the world, Tian'anmen Square has the capacity to hold one million people. Tian'anmen (Heavenly Gate) Tower sites at the north end of the square while the Monument to the People's Heroes dominates the centre. The square is flanked by The Great Hall of the People (west) and the National Museum of China (east). Chairman Mao's mausoleum and Qianmen (Front Gate) sit in the south of the square. Considered one of the top 16 tourist attractions in Beijing, Tian'anmen Square is also the witness of the Chinese people's great struggles for democracy and personal freedom since 1919.
Afternoon sightseeing at the Temple of Heaven, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Situated in southeastern Beijing the Temple of Heaven is China's largest extant sacrificial temple where, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, the emperors conducted the elaborate and most exalted sacrifices addressed to "the Supreme Ruler of the Universe." Construction of the temple started in 1406, during the reign of the Ming Emperor Yongle, and took 14 years to complete. The temple was expanded under the Qing emperors Qianlong (1736-1796) and Jiaqing (1796-1820). Occupying 2.73 square kilometres (roughly 1,700 by 1,600 metres), the area of the Temple of Heaven is more than twice that of the Forbidden City.
Tonight we enjoy a delicious farewell dinner at a high-end Beijing roast duck restaurant. (B/L/D)
Day 16/Sat, Apr 25: Beijing - Home City
Spend the morning packing and relaxing. Transfer to the airport to board return flight departing in the afternoon. Re-cross the International Date Line and arrive home the same day. (B)
Land Tour Price: $4250 CAD
- price is per person based on double occupancy
- single room surcharge: $1395 CAD
Contact Julius Yan or Maggie Qiu for space availability.
Telephone: 604-438-7718 / 1-877-507-1177 toll free
Address: 3195 Granville Street - Suite 45, Vancouver
Complete the reservation form at https://www.laurustravel.com/resform.htm.
Pay deposit of $300 per person by Visa, MasterCard or personal cheque. Spaces cannot be guaranteed without deposit.
Local economy class air and ground transportation.
First class seat on high speed train wherever applicable.
Airport transfers on arrival and exit if the dates correspond with tour schedule.
Guided sightseeing and entrance fees per itinerary.
Cultural shows as listed.
Daily meals as specified.
English-speaking guides throughout tour.
Service of a tour leader.
China visa fee & handling charge for Canadians in Canada (assistance to others available on request).
Gratuities except for the tour leader ($10/day/person recommended for the tour leader).
Tour price does NOT Include:
Gratuities to the tour leader ($10/day/person recommended).
Any item or service not specified as included per itinerary
Health & Fitness Requirements
This tour requires the participant to have a certain level of fitness and health. The itinerary involves frequent climbing of steps and extensive walking on uneven ground. For this reason we want to emphasize in the kindest possible way that this tour is not suitable for people with challenges that require special help or attention or would make it difficult for them to take part in the daily schedule of events and activities. We, of course, want to be as inclusive as possible but our experience in the past has shown that it can be frustrating for everyone if people cannot walk comfortably or take part fully in the activities.
If you have any questions about this aspect of the tour, please talk to Julius or one of his colleagues.
Tour was a wonderful adventure
Our 18-day tour to Spain and Morocco was as excting and fun-packed as expected.
We started in Madrid and visited Segovia and Toledo before heading to Cordoba, Seville and Granada.
From there we crossed the 17 km stretch of water separating Europe from Africa and reached Tangier. From there we head to Fes and then to Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca and ended our tour in Marrakech.
On the way we saw wonderful gardens, including ones in Segovia and Madrid, Cordoba and Granada. In Marrakech we visited the famous Majorelle Garden.
Here are some snapshots from the trip. I actually shot about 2,000 photos, so you can imagine this is a mere drop in the bucket.
JAPAN, TAKE A BOW:
YOU WERE GREAT!
Tokyo makes a great first impression. Not all cities do, but Tokyo does.
If you arrive at Haneda Airport in the early evening, your shuttle into the heart of the city will be a dazzling roller-coaster ride into twisting tunnels, over high bridges, along narrow under-passes and across arching flyovers.
And as you whoosh up and over, down and under, in and out, the city sparkles majestically and looks gorgeous all around you with tens of thousands of twinkling lights from countless highrises and apartment blocks.
In the midst of it all, you have no problem spotting the Tokyo Tower, glittering all gold and shimmery — a jewel-like beacon against the night sky, it shines brighter than the Eiffel Tower and stands a wee bit taller at 333 metres.
My first impression of Tokyo and Japan was of a clean, well-organized, graffiti-free, litter-free world, filled with polite, non-horn-honking drivers, clutter-free balconies, and immaculate urban landscaping.
But what also struck me was what a quiet city it is, considering it is one of the world’s largest with 35 million people living within a 50 km radius of the centre.
Quietness, politeness and respectful behaviour, I soon discovered, is deeply entrenched in the Japanese psyche. It is not feigned or cynically observed; it is a sincere and genuine sensibility, a core value of the society.
I loved this aspect of the culture immediately, and I grew to love it more and more during my 14-day stay leading a group of 40 on a garden tour from Tokyo to Takayama, Kanazawa and on to Kyoto, Nara and Osaka.
This respectfulness is most elegantly expressed in a simple hand-gesture. The Japanese don’t point; they direct you to where you need to go, whether it’s to your seat in a restaurant, the way to the exit or the invitation to step first into an elevator. With a graceful extension of the hand, palm facing up and fingers closed, it is a charming thing to see performed.
Bowing is a common practice, too. It is not a cultural cliché, cynically performed, but rather a universal gesture of respect.
One of my most memorable experiences was walking into one of Tokyo’s biggest department stores when it had just opened to find a row of people lined up outside each of the departments.
As I walked into the store, each person gently bowed. It became a little embarrassing after the eighth and ninth person lowered their head, but what I was also intensely aware of was that, while each person was bowing respectfully, they were not surrendering a shred of their own personal dignity. Their composure and self-dignity was completely undisturbed.
You receive this kind of treatment in restaurants and bars and hotels and it sometimes comes across like a charming old-world dance move.
Another form of politeness I thought may have been a thing of the past, but is still rigorously and passionately adhered to, is the custom of removing shoes before stepping into a home, living area or traditional-style restaurants.
Some of Tokyo’s homeless are allowed to sleep at the train station once the last train has gone. Others put up small tents in the park behind city hall.
But what you notice is that before settling into their temporary abode for the night they always remove their shoes and leave them off the mat or outside the tent — that’s how deeply entrenched the importance of shoe-removal is in their thinking.
Even when people picnic under the cherry blossoms in the park — something I saw extensively in the Shinjuku Gardens — they remove their shoes before stepping on to the picnic blanket.
Politeness even extends to traffic signs. Along a highway out of Tokyo, I saw a sign showing the cartoon face of a sleeping person with a moon and a sprinkling of stars above their head.
It was a request to motorists not to rev their engines or make unnecessary noise out of consideration for people trying to sleep in apartments nearby.
When I checked into my hotel, the Keio Plaza in the Shinjuku neighbourhood, I received another cultural lesson: The Japanese not only love politeness, but also multi-functional, push-button toilets.
At first, I thought it was a joke. It struck me as an over-mechanized hospital toilet with far too many buttons.
But no, each button performed a specific and practical function, including one that initiated a polite flushing sound (new models play music) and others to launch various washing functions with adjustable pressure control.
I was also delighted to find hotels in Japan always provide guests with yukatas — the light-weight, cotton-equivalent of the classic kimono.
There is no faster way to feel that you are into the culture of Japan than to slip on a yukata the moment you get into your hotel room. These come, by the way, with stylish slippers, too.
Within a few days, I discovered all sorts of other interesting, albeit sometimes quirky, things about the Japanese sensibilities.
Public displays of affection, for instance, are frowned upon.
You don’t see any hand-holding, kissing, hugging or overt gestures — even loud talking.
I was told these expressions are thought to be intimate and private and not for public display.
When you leave a restaurant or hotel, it is not unusual for the staff to gather at the door and wave goodbye ... and keep waving and bowing and waving until you are completely out of sight.
Walking the streets of Tokyo, night or day, even in the bustling “Night Town” areas around Shinjuku was a pleasure.
I always felt safe and within a short time started to realize that I was surrounded by people who would willingly give me help at the drop of a hat.
It was a reassuring feeling, especially not to have people coming up to beg or pressure me to buy this or that or looking to gain some advantage.
Taxis in Japan are delightful.
Who doesn’t love a clean, efficient taxi? Japanese taxis set the world-standard, as far as I’m concerned. I took them in Tokyo and Kyoto.
They are clean, quiet and odour free. The back door opens automatically. Tipping is discouraged. Drivers invariably wear white gloves. You can’t help but feel special as if you have your own chauffeur.
The biggest challenge being in Japan — and I knew it would be all along — was the food. I love sushi but Japanese food is way beyond sushi. They eat every kind of seafood, including jellyfish, octopus — you name it — a lot.
The good news is that many restaurants have three-dimensional, full-colour plastic replicas of dishes displayed in the window or outside.
Or, they have photographs in menus or in the windows, so you can just point (or gesture) to order, though sad that may sound, it works.
I had at least three Japanese banquet dinners during my stay, each one served to me as I sat shoeless with legs in a trench under the table.
At each of these banquets, I had to cook meat in a boiler in the centre of the table. I ate fish with their heads still on and, well, every kind of fish — but also very fresh vegetables.
At one point, my group had a sushi-making lesson and we learned how to finger-press rice into the perfect shape and smear it with wasabi, creating a variety of items for lunch. It was fun and what we created turned out to be delicious.
The Japanese like to eat a diverse range of small portions, of as many things as possible: variety is the spice of life when it comes to their dietary choices.
In Tokyo, there is no shortage of things to do. The Ginza shopping district is top notch, especially the food sections at the department stores, where items are exquisitely displayed like works of art.
In the Mitsukoshi store, you can buy a light lunch and carry it to the sunny roof-garden terrace where you can dine and enjoy a lovely city panorama.
The Asakusa area is another exciting place to visit with its 7th century Senso-ji Buddhist temple and Denboin traditional garden and streets crammed with stalls and gift shops.
This is a good place to buy a kimono. In fact, you see dozens of young girls walking in colourful kimonos in the street as unpaid ambassadors for the district.
Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples abound. At the famous Meiji Shrine, you first learn the act of spiritual cleansing. This involves taking a wooden cup attached to a long handle to scoop water with which you first wash your left hand, then your right hand before touching your lips with water to conclude the ritual.
Attending a baseball game is something I would recommend. A number of us from my group decided to do this together. We went to see the Yakult Swallows take on the Yomiuri Giants at the Jingu Stadium.
I rooted for the Swallows, the home team. Every time they scored, fans would open umbrellas and sing a song.
At the game, young women walk around dispensing beer, using a tap attached to a beer reservoir which they carry as a back-pack. It is one of the most unusual delivery systems I have ever seen.
From Tokyo, we travelled to Takayama on one of Japan’s rapid Bullet Trains. Getting on and off the train is something that needs to be done quickly and expertly. You get two minutes maximum.
When schoolchildren take the train, they practise getting on and off in the classroom well ahead of time to get the move down precisely.
In Takayama, we stayed at a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, where you not only get to wear yukatas and slippers, but also sleep on a futon in a typical Japanese set of rooms with tatami mats and a low table.
The idea here was to give us a taste of traditional Japanese living. Most of the people in Japan still live in homes with rooms that are used for more than one function.
Futons are pulled out at night and put away in the morning to open the space for other activities.
I was told that the size of a home and the rooms within are described by the number of tatami mats that fit rather than square feet. The standard size of a mat is 88-by-176 cm.
As well as first-rate Ryokans, Takayama also has a vibrant old-town shopping area and morning market where you can taste a variety of local dishes and treats as well as taste locally brewed sake.
In one sake store, for a dollar, I was handed a small ceramic sake cup which I was allowed to keep.
I was then allowed to taste a wide range of flavours. There were at least 12 on display, including the one I ended up buying, the cherry blossom sake, brewed specially for spring.
Kyoto is by far the most bustling, vibrant, energetic city I visited. Yes, even more dynamic, I thought, than Tokyo.
At night, Kyoto is particularly beautiful. Shopping areas are brightly lit for strolling.
The city also has some of the most beautiful temples and gardens in Japan, including the Golden Pavilion, Silver Pavilion, Ryoan-ji rock garden and Saihoji moss garden.
But if you go to Kyoto, make sure you get time to walk the famous Philosopher’s Path, which gets its name from the influential 20th-century Japanese philosopher and Kyoto University professor, Kitaro Nishida, who walked the route daily for meditation and inspiration.
The path runs alongside a canal and, as you walk you pass temples, including the Honen-in, as well as tiny cafes and shops which are dotted here and there.
You can stop for a sandwich lunch with beer, wine or sake and then continue down the hillside and along the river to the lively Gion (geisha) district.
Here you can see geishas in their traditional costumes put on a classic Miyako Odon performance.
This first involves attending a tea ceremony after which you are treated to an eight-scene drama with music provided by two lines of female musicians — Jikata and Ohayashi — playing flutes, drums and traditional Japanese shamisen (three stringed banjo-like lutes).
You might find the singing a challenge to your ears, but you can’t help but be impressed by the precision of the dance moves.
Saying goodbye is also something we Westerners’ have to learn to say properly, I was told.
“You don’t just say the word, you say it with a tear in your voice as if you were weeping.
“When you just say the word, it sounds as if you mean, ‘Good, I am glad to be going.’ But when you say it the right way, with a tearful tone, it means I am so sad and don’t want to leave you.”
So with that, Sayonara.
MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH PHILADELPHIA
Falling in love is like eating cake, I always think. You don’t have to think about it too much. You just take a forkful and swallow. And if you like the way it tastes, you take another forkful. That’s pretty much how I fell in love with Philadelphia. It was not what I was expecting. It was a love affair that came out of the blue.
I love Paris. I love London. I love Rome. All amazing cities. But now I am smitten with Philadelphia.
It is a city that has taken me by surprise and made me happier than I imagined with its innate spirit of creativity, inventiveness, progressive thinking and generosity. I love, love love its unswerving focus on freedom and tolerance. I think it deserves more attention.
What precisely is it that I love so much?
Well, let me count the ways..
First, I love the attitude of its founder, William Penn, a man way ahead of his time in terms of his ideas about democracy, city planning and personal freedoms, and I love the work and achievements of so many of the city’s progressive, innovative thinkers, such as Ben Franklin.
Penn’s wonderful spirit of acceptance and religious tolerance still permeates what we now call the “city of brotherly love.”
It is significant that a giant statue of him has been placed at the top of city hall from where he watches over the city. It is a constant reminder to stand up for freedom and human rights and to always be willing to trade in a good idea for a better one.
It impresses me that the city still recognizes that it was built by immigrants from all over the world and today insists on permanently displaying the flags of 109 nations along its main boulevard -Benjamin Franklin Parkway - as a constant reminder of the complexity of the world and the value of diversity.
I love that Philadelphia values and appreciates art and beauty, so much so that it has established three of the world’s best art institutions - the Barnes Foundation, Rodin Museum and Museum of Art, all of which are jam-packed with an embarrassment of priceless treasures.
It thrills me that Philadelphia loves art so much that it has passed a law requiring every new building project to devote at least one per cent of the site to public art.
Walk any where in the downtown and you will see superb examples of wall murals and exquisite sculpture, even on quiet backstreets.
You’ll find the famous LOVE sculpture by Robert Indiana, Three-Way Piece by Henry Moore, and, of course, the Rocky Statue by A. Thomas Schomberg.
I first visited Philly to attend its superb flower show, the world’s oldest and biggest. That’s what took me there on my first visit in 2013.
But it was only when I returned there this month to see the show for a second time that I really understood what it is that I love so much about the city.
Part of this epiphany came while visiting the Barnes Foundation and Longwood Gardens, two world-class institutions created by multi-millionaires, Albert C. Barnes and Pierre du Pont.
Barnes used his fortune to amass one of the world’s finest art collections, more than 2,500 objects, including dozens of works by Impressionists. It has been estimated to be worth about $25 billion.
Du Pont used his fortune to buy a 1,077-acre property once owned by Quakers in the Brandywine Creek Valley and turning it into the fabulous Longwood Gardens, one of the world’s most beautiful garden estates with fabulous hothouse gardens and various outdoor gardens.
You can’t help but be touched by the generosity and vision of these men; their love for art and natural beauty but also their deep desire to protect and preserve it and share with others. It is a spirit of enthusiasm and leadership that I wish Vancouver saw more of from its elite citizens.
If you visit Philly, time spent at the Barnes, where every room is an eccentrically organized abundance of art treasures, and at Longwood, where the dedication to creating gorgeous landscapes is paramount, and never a waste.
Albert Barnes wanted to make people see in a way that made connections through colour and form and space, so he placed paintings next to furniture with similar patterning or colour to stretch the imagination.
Du Pont loved trees and couldn’t bear to see them cut down but he went further and created beautiful gardens, drawing inspiration from what he had seen in Europe.
Every moment at either of these spectacular facilities is guaranteed to lift your spirits and fill you with a sense of appreciation and celebration.
When I came to Philly for the first time to see the flower show, which is an amazing work in itself, I was not expecting to be dazzled also by the quirkier side of the city’s personality, such as walking into the shoe department at Macy’s and finding the world’s biggest pipe organ or the Magic Garden of Isaiah Zagar, a whimsical mosaic garden built on a backstreet, composed out of tens of thousands of pieces of found art and ceramics.
Macy’s giant pipe organ pumps out Mozart, Bach and Handel in concerts twice a day while shoppers buy new shoes. It’s just as surreal as Zagar’s Magic Garden and no one bats an eye. It is such a wonderful eccentricity, the perfect fit for a tolerant and eclectic community.
Back outside, standing in the civic square, where public art is dotted everywhere, all you need to do is stand in one spot and turn 360 degrees to see a whole range of architectural styles flash before your eyes, from the ultra-modern flash-drive of the shimmering Comcast Tower to the ornate, elaborate Victorian facade of the city hall with its 22-foot thick masonry walls.
In the lobby of the 58-storey Comcast Centre, there is yet another gesture of Philadelphia’s generosity - a wall that appears to be made of elegant wood panels that magically transforms itself into the world’s biggest and cutting-edge 3D video screen presenting free entertainment to passersby all day long.
It is a mesmerizing spectacle. There is a constant stream of people entering the lobby just to stand and stare at the giant waterfalls or whirling galaxies or humourous performances up on the giant screen.
History was not my favourite subject at school. It can be very dry and boring, but the historic sites in Philly are full of energy and vitality. It was, after all, where the U.S. revolution got under way, where the Americans found the guts to stand up and tell the English where to go.
The spirit of independence and struggle for freedom still resonates in these places where the Declaration of Independence was signed and the Constitution was drawn up.
I even get a kick out of the symbol of this triumphant push for freedom, the Liberty Bell, which although silent and cracked beyond repair continues to ring out a message of hope and freedom.
Philadelphia appears to have rejected everything Georgian when it gained its independence, but it was smart enough not to damage the beautiful Georgian architecture of its great historic buildings, such as the Carpenter’s Hall, City Tavern and Independence Hall. These buildings still have immense charm and elegance.
You can still pop into the nation’s first post office, started by Ben Franklin, or into the house of Betsy Ross and get a sense of these exciting times with actors performing the key roles.
When I am in the old town neighbourhood, I like to check out the Belgian taverns and amazing Iron Chef restaurants, but in the new town area my favourite place to spend time is the Reading Terminal Market, one of the oldest farmer’s markets in the U.S., dating back to 1892.
Here you can find an excellent version of the famous Philly Cheesesteak plus all sorts of food and craft stalls run by local Amish people, dressed in traditional outfits.
The market is a lot like Granville Island, only livelier and more diverse with more restaurants and a wide range of foods from Asian and Middle Eastern dishes to authentic Pennsylvanian Dutch cooking.
Berlin may have its fabulous “museum island’ but Philadelphia has something equally outstanding - its own row of art galleries and museums along Benjamin Franklin Parkway.
At the Museum of Art, where you can run up the steps and do a victory jig the way Rocky did in the famous 80s boxing movie, you will find exquisite room after room of art treasures, including top works by Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet and Cezanne.
During my recent visit, I fell in love with a set of four paintings by Leon Frederic called The Four Seasons, each one depicting cherubs surrounded by the flowers and foliage of each season.
In an adjacent room, I also found an exciting collection of flower plantings by Henri Fantin-Latour.
Down the road, the Rodin Museum contains the largest collection of works by the French sculptor outside of Paris.
Especially engaging is the Gates of Hell, a monumental work at the main entrance. This dark and disturbing piece includes Rodin’s most famous creations, The Kiss and The Thinker, but also The Shades, three gloomy spirits pointing to the agony of the damned below.
I never knew that the lovers in The Kiss (Francesca and Paolo) ended up in hell for their crime of passion. It was a revelation to me to realize how badly that initial beautiful, celebrated first kiss turned out.
It did, however, set the mood when I left the Rodin and wandered over to the Eastern State Penitentiary, a derelict 19th century prison that once was home to such famous criminals as Al Capone and the tunnel-digging escapee Willie Sutton.
But even here, in the dreariness of a crumbling prison block, it was possible to see Philadelphia in a more noble light.
The prison was, in its day, the model of creative rehabilitation with prisoners kept in light and airy cells built on a revolutionary, easy-to-manage wagon-wheel design.
Ben Franklin had his hand in the design of this institution which became the model for others around the world. There is no denying the terrible pain and suffering that went on there, but I came away preferring to think about the desire of people like Franklin to find a more humane and creative solution to punishment, if such a thing is possible.
Time in the prison cells makes you only more appreciative of a Philly Cheesesteak, the city’s most famous invention with its thinly sliced sautéed rib eye beef and melted cheese. But the city is also home to dozens of top notch restaurants
Amada and Buddakan are two of my favourites in the old town district along Chestnut Street. Amada is one of Iron Chef Jose Garce’s chain and Buddakan is a Pan Asian restaurant that serves up everything from seared Kobe beef carpaccio to miso tuna tartar and roasted Ponzu chicken.
I also became a fan of the classic Italian fare served up at Maggiano’s or the stylish décor and sliced meats of the Brazilian steakhouse-style of Fogo de Chao. You might also like the quirkiness of the reservoir location of Waterworks, another popular restaurant spot on the banks of the Schuylkill River.
You won’t go wrong at any of these restaurants, but Buddakan and Amada are top recommendations.
Anyway, the next time you hear Elton John singing his old 1975 hit Philadelphia Freedom think on this: He’s a lot closer to the truth about the heart and soul of the city that you might think.
I never used to think of Philadelphia as a city of light, but now I must say I totally agree with Elton when he sings, “Shine a light shine, shine a light, Philadelphia freedom shine on me, I love you, yes I do.”
GARDEN VIDEO VISITS:
See some of the world's top gardens
GARDENS TO INSPIRE
Take a few minutes to come with me and visit some of the most beautiful gardens in the world. Here are the first two in what will be a developing series.
Here you can start by visiting the delightful Le Parc Flora d'Apremont-sur-Allier in the Loire Valley followed by a quick tour of the magnificent water garden at Villa d'Este in Tivoli.
Recent additions feature Trebah, Glendurgan, the Keukenhof, Hidcote and Serre de la Madone (the gardens of Lawrence Johnston).
START YOUR ADVENTURE HERE.
WE LOVED BEAUTIFUL BRAZIL
My mind is still a jumble of thrilling scenes and unforgettable images after spending the past two weeks visiting some of the most spectacular gardens and places in Brazil.
The tour I was leading started out at Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro, jumped over to the bustling city of Belo Horizonte in Minas Gerais and ended up at Iguazu Falls, one of the world’s seven natural wonders, on the Argentina/Paraguay border.
On the way, we visited amazing gardens, most of them designed or inspired by, but always imprinted with, the bold, unmistakable signature of Brazil’s most famous and celebrated landscape architect, Roberto Burle Marx.
Burle Marx was a genius of style. He was not only a superb garden designer and knowledgeable plantsman, but also an artist who produced strikingly original images that have deeply penetrated the collective consciousness of Brazil.
You can see his iconic black and white art squiggles embedded in the pavements and sidewalks all over Rio de Janeiro.
But it was his unwavering enthusiasm for using indigenous South American plants, especially palms, agaves, yuccas, bromeliads, maranta, sansevieria, aloes and unusual tropical trees and shrubs that gave his landscapes their distinctive personality and lush, exotic ambience.
We started out by visiting the place where Burle Marx lived and worked until the end of his life: the 3.6-hectare Burle Marx estate, a magnificent garden property in Barra de Guaratiba, on the outskirts of Rio.
Burle Marx bought the estate in 1949 with the help of his brother. At the time, the property was mostly undeveloped, but did have a lovely 17th-century chapel, once used by Carmelite nuns.
Burle Marx moved to live permanently on the estate in 1973 until his death at 84 in 1994.
Rather than see the property disappear after his death, Burle Marx bought out his brother and made sure the wonderful garden and art collections were preserved for the future.
Today, the garden, which contains an estimated 3,500 species of plants, is owned and operated by the government
Stepping through the front gates, we were immediately aware of Burle Marx’s love for native plants.
Huge, lush palms were everywhere and Adam’s rib philodendrons (Monstera deliciosa) scrambled as high as 18 metres up the trunks of trees.
Most trees were also home to various epiphytic plants — orchids, bromeliads, staghorn ferns and air plants — and as we slowly ascended the hillside along an avenue of Brazilian ironwood trees (Caesalpinia ferrea), we passed grove after grove of sculptural agaves, aloes, aechmea, yuccas, cycads and tropical euphorbias.
At the top of the hill, we reached the house, with its elegant interior of hand-painted blue ceilings and tastefully decorated walls, where Burle Marx lived until his death.
The veranda overlooked a charming water garden where borders were crammed with sansevieria and bright yellow grasses while ornate granite columns rising out of the pond were topped with elegant bromeliads.
There were large plumeria trees, also known as frangipani, and great clouds of pink blooming woolly congea (Congea tomentosa).
Inside the house, we found fine examples of Burle Marx’s own art work, as well as many fine examples of Brazilian folk art.
The site also has its own gallery, as well as wonderful art-filled areas designed for receptions and musical events.
Exploring the garden, we were forced repeatedly to stop and identify unknown, never-before-seen plants, such as the sorrow-less tree (Saraca asoca).
We were constantly challenged through our time in Brazil by a vast range of new trees to identify, including the golden trumpet tree (Tabebuia chrysotricha), the purple glory tree (Tibouchina granulosa) and various species of Bauhinia, also known as the orchid tree. Burle Marx’s garden delivered the first of many botanical lessons.
In another area, we walked down a path lined by quirky walking palms (Socratea exorrhiza) that led to a pond dotted with small islands on which more palms were planted. In the background, there was a gently rising hillside of lush agaves and bromeliads and giant blue fronds of jelly palms.
Before leaving Rio, we took time to ride through the Tijuca forest in open-topped jeeps and to visit the botanical garden, where we found magnificent avenues of royal palms and majestic stands of traveller’s palms, bamboo and a woodland of rain trees (Samanea saman).
We also popped into Flamingo Park, another of Burle Marx’s efforts, where we found an eye-catching planting of orange Ixora coccinea and a little woodland of cannonball trees (Couroupita guianensis).
My group was puzzled at first by why I had brought them to Belo Horizonte as the city does not show itself that well, despite being a bustling and thriving metropolis with an abundance of top works by Brazil’s famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer, who died last year at the age of 105.
But then we went to Inhotim (pronounced In-yo-cheen), a massive 2,025-hectare Shangri-La that is not only a fantastic garden oasis, containing more than 4,500 species of plants, including more than 1,000 kinds of palm, but also the home of Brazil’s most impressive collection of modern art, with more than 500 works by dozens of Brazilian and international artists.
It is sensational, one of the biggest and most ambitious botanical projects in the world, a masterpiece of botanical planning and planting on a mega-scale.
Inhotim is the brainchild of 63-year-old millionaire mining magnate and art lover Bernardo Paz, who decided in the 1980s to use his fortune to transform a 1,215-hectare ranch in Brumadinho (a two-hour drive southwest of Belo Horizonte) into a spectacular garden complex and museum for contemporary art.
To make his dream a reality, Paz called on talented Burle Marx, whose botanical fingerprints can still be found all over the site, especially in beautiful mass plantings of blue Bismarckia palms and clusters, banks and generous drifts of bromeliads, agaves, cordylines and dracaena.
Today, Inhotim employs about 1,000 people and has been a major revenue boost for the local economy.
Paz is much loved by the local people and is regarded as the Willy Wonka of horticulture for his ambition and creative vision. He hopes when people visit they will be inspired to want to live a better life.
“When you enter this dream, you are transformed and you start to imagine the life you’d really like to have. You don’t want to go back to your life in the city,” he once told a reporter.
From the moment we arrived, we were impressed by the scope and scale of the project, the attention to detail and the bold, confident planting throughout the entire complex.
Paz has spent hundreds of millions of dollars installing first-class landscaping and top-quality facilities.
He is now planning to expand the project even more by building a hotel, golf course and more art pavilions.
There are kilometres of exquisite peachy-pink coloured flagstone paths, all beautifully installed and meticulously maintained.
This network of paths brings colour, texture and a feeling of quality to the overall infra-structure and makes it possible to explore the site in a casual, relaxed and virtually effortless way as you stroll from one art pavilion to another.
There are four large lakes, all beautifully shaped and lavishly surrounded by exotic tropical plants.
Visitors self-guide themselves around the various art installations, most of which are housed in chic white pavilions, nestled harmoniously into the forest landscape.
But what a thrill it was to walk in a forest of cordylines and beside a wall of spiky dracaenas or down avenues of white-barked eucalyptus under-planted with fiery red salvia or along corridors bordered by palms with trunks easily as beautiful as any columns in a Greek temple.
It was magical. And my group emerged in a suspended state of awe. Bravo to Brazil for its brilliant gardens.
It was a thrilling two weeks of fun and unforgettable sights. Here are some snapshots from the trip. You can also see a video of our trip at YouTube click here. BRAZIL TOUR 2013
SPRING TOURS TO ITALY AND FRANCE
Here’s some feedback we got from the spring garden tours. It's so important that people return home having had the time of their life.
But sometimes there needs to be some spontaneous, creative input in order to make things work out.
For instance, there was the moment when we were stuck in a traffic jam outside St. Tropez and rather than just sit there, I thought it would be fun if we had a party. When you're givien lemons . . .
I got off and bought a pack of plastic glasses and returned and opened up bottles of wines we had bought at Chateauneuf du Pape.
We played people’s favourite rock songs. Some people even got up and danced. It was fun. Other people contributed bottles they had bought and snacks. By the time the wine and food was gone, we were out of the jam and on our way to Cannes, our next destination.
We have had a fair number of spontaneous moments like that one on our tours and they always make the adventure all the more special.
Anywhere, here’s what some of the people had to say:
From the Italian garden tour.
- I can't thank you both enough for arranging such a beautiful trip. Having everything taken care of, is definitely the way to travel, and I couldn't have asked for a better way to see southern Italy and Sicily. – Sharon B.
- We look back at this trip as very special - the group was just outstanding and fun to be with. – Ron R.
- I was so energized by your selection of gardens, and loved the physical activity required to visit all the sites and manoeuvre through the many gardens, villages and towns. – Daphne S.
- Thank you again for the wonderful Italian Garden Tour. It was such a well thought out balance of activities. As Steve predicted, when we got home the experience expanded into hundreds of wonderful moments. We have sent many of our photos to friends and have told them about your tours. – Joan K. and Rob C.
- I look at my pictures almost everyday and show them to anyone who sounds the least bit interested so this is another happy reminder of this marvellous tour. – Patti B.
- We have had such fun making our own pictures into a memory slide show, and each time I look at it, the wonderful gardens return. Our presence on this trip was really up in the air until a couple weeks before because of my health problems, so when we arrived, I was a bit tentative. However, the presence of kindred gardening spirits and beautiful nature was entirely restorative. What an incredible landscape southern Italy is. We appreciated all the behind the scenes conceptualizing that you two put into your tour. You certainly made it into two splendid weeks for us. Thank you both. – Jean C.
From the French tour tour:
- We haven't downloaded our 600 + pictures yet. It was a great trip and we hope we get to join you again in the near future.
- What a rainy day, just came back from The Great Gatsby movie, his home looks like the Rothchilds! - Karen P.
- It was a wonderful tour and I will remember it forever and feel so blessed to have been able to go on it with you and Steve and the many delightful people on the trip too. Many thanks. Pauline M.
- Thanks Loraine, very enjoyable! Look forward to travelling with you and Steve again. – Jo-Ann M.
- Thanks for this delightful set of memories. To be enjoyed with a glass of rosé in hand... – Sue B.
- Thanks very much for the video. It brought back memories of our great trip--especially the music that you chose to accompany it. – Shirley R.
SEE VIDEOS FROM ITALY AND FRANCE TOURS
We had great fun on both the garden tours this spring.
I put together two short video composed of snaps of people on the tours in different locations. It is customary for us to have a song for each tour.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW.
For Italy, I picked Sensa Fine by Pauline London and for France I picked Zou Bisou, Bisou by Jessica Pare - two wonderful songs that I thought captured the spirit of each tour perfectly.
Anyway, take a look at these short little videos. Let me know what you think at firstname.lastname@example.org
MY LIFE IN THE GARDEN
For more than 20 years I have been the garden columnist for The Vancouver Sun here in British Columbia, Canada.
My full-colour In the Garden page appears every Friday in the At Home section. Check out my newspaper website, blog, podcasts and more here at In the Garden.
I've also written five books: The Vancouver Sun's Best Plant Picks, 100 Best Plants for Coastal Gardens,The Blooming Great Gardening Book, and 100 Best Plants for Ontario Gardens. The first four were No. 1 bestsellers in B.C.
Over the last five years, I have conducted nine international garden tours: three to Italy, three to France, one to England-Scotland, one to Holland-Belgium-England and one to South Africa.
My next tour will be to Philadelphia in 2014 (see above) after which we will be going to Japan.
I have also written for various garden magazines, including Gardens Illustrated in the UK.
My wife, Loraine, and I have three children, now all in their 30s.
At our home in Burnaby, we have an English-style garden, comprising a mix of trees, shrubs, vines, roses and perennials.
Before coming to Canada in 1975, I worked for various newspapers in the U.K. including the London Evening News, Bristol Post, Leicester Mercury and Nottingham Evening Post.
Below you can see a few snapshots from our recent trip to France and Italy.